Q: During the "war"
I bought a map of the former Yugoslavia, tacked it to the wall, and kept up
with the news on the map. I think I marked some of the locations of mass graves
on that map. At least I remember finding some of the areas...I must admit that
I admire your courage to go to such a place. Do you feel safe?
A: As to ethnic cleansing yep that did happen in Kosovo
and that in part is why we're here. As we talk with folks this is something
they don't openly talk about but Fuji's co-worker & family are starting
to open up it to us and it seems as bad as the books say it was. Obituaries
of disappearances and many other deaths from the past appear in the newspaper
often. Folks that have been dead for quite awhile are being found in the mass
graves that are still being uncovered. So much to learn.
A: As to safe, Americans are loved here. When we get the camera recharged will
take a picture of Bill Clinton street. It has a huge billboard of billy. We
traveled to the town of Gjilan yesterday for two organizing meeting. Definitely
interesting and different in a cultural way. More on that in one of our updates.
But traveled through a Serb town on the way and while Albanians might not be
safe, we would be. So said our Albanian host. Also this was in the American
zone so we saw our first American solders. They look the same as the solders
in Pristina (Brit).
Q: How do local folks there think of our national leadership?
A: Its hard to tell so far. They love Bill Clinton and
Americans as we bombed the Serbs outta here. More as we figure it out.
Q: Do they feel free to speak up or is it too soon for you guys to be able
to
tell?
A: Our host Gjylieta has no problem and the others that
we met do not either. The society here is free to speak their minds and there
do not seem to be any negative consequences. However, it is likely we may learn
more about this as time passes. Since we are in democratization-type of work,
we could also be meeting a different breed.
Q: What is the dominant religion in Kosovo?
A: Muslim but you wouldn't know it. Things are pretty
generic. Albanians are the majority and you're right at the 90% level. Some
say 94%. But that will change when and if the resettlement occurs. The locals
and Serbs still don't seem to like each other. Serbs tend to be Orthodox Christians.
But really, religion doesn’t seem like a big deal (at least to us, so far).
Q: Do they talk about their hatred or distrust?
A: People are quite polite when they talk with us but
as we get to know them better I think we'll find the undercurrent of dislike
of the Serbs. Apparently they were brutal when they were in charge. We've heard
stories of them regularly stopping of people in the streets and beating them
for no reason. That was accepted. It is the disappearances and apparent killings
that still has people pissed off. In the paper it daily has obituaries of those
that are finally confirmed as dead from the uncovering of mass graves, so we
are told. And our primary contact so far has been with Albanians. We haven't
found the international community yet. As we learn more on this topic, we will
report.
Q: How is the health care scene?
A: Regarding the health care scene here, I can't say much
yet as I am not working in health care. Our landlord (the mom) is a pediatrician
thou and her office is at the entrance to our apartment complex. So, I imagine
I will learn more in time. There seems to be many dental places; almost like
pharmacies, nearly every few blocks. It find that strange but it also makes
me wonder about licensure/quality/etc. 'cuz I haven't seen anyone with good
looking teeth!
Q: I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on whether you think Kosovars are
happier or less happy than Americans in general.
A: In general, I think Americans are. But its not really
a fair question because ya have to remember, these folks are still recovering
from war. Its only been 3 years. Their lives are still not back to where they
were even during the Serb dominance in the 90’s. There appears to be a
global depression here. Don’t get me wrong, people are friendly and they
laugh and socialize. However, the stress, suppressed trauma, or general hardships
of life, are apparent on many of their faces. All things considered, they are
obviously resilient folks! They clearly take things in stride and I have heard
comments about “internationals” who make a big deal about stuff. Locals
say, its nothing compared to when you have experienced war and atrocities.
So, maybe a better question might be, who is focused on the important things
in life? Family, friends, living daily…? Or Stocks, SUVs, …? We join
in our concern for war: Iraq and GW